I've noticed that the fragrance industry has developed a rather peculiar obsession with percentages.
Twenty percent. Thirty percent. Forty percent.
Apparently, we've reached a point where the number on the bottle is sometimes treated as more important than what actually comes out of it.
Perhaps we should simply make everything 100% fragrance concentrate and declare victory.
Except, of course, perfumery doesn't work that way.
At Vach Cittoni, our fragrances are formulated at 28% Extrait de Parfum concentration.
That number is deliberate.
But here's something I think deserves considerably more attention.
What's actually inside that 28%?
Because I assure you, not all fragrance concentrates are created equal.
The Number Is Not the Formula
Let's establish something useful before the marketing departments get involved.
A fragrance concentration of 28% means that fragrance concentrate makes up 28% of the finished perfume.
But that doesn't automatically mean every gram of that concentrate consists of an odour-producing material.
A fragrance concentrate may contain aromatic ingredients alongside solvents, diluents, stabilizers and other functional materials.
Some are essential to making a composition work properly.
Some serve useful technical purposes without contributing much scent themselves.
And some can be included largely to increase the volume of the concentrate.
Which brings me to something I've developed a rather strong opinion about.
Bulk-Extended Fillers
That's what I call them.
Bulk-extended fillers.
Materials used primarily to bulk out a fragrance concentrate without contributing meaningful olfactory or necessary technical value.
Now, before somebody accuses me of declaring war on chemistry, let's be clear.
I'm not suggesting every solvent or diluent is unnecessary.
Quite the opposite.
Some aromatic materials need assistance dissolving. Others require careful handling, dilution or stabilization.
Those are legitimate formulation considerations.
A functional ingredient that genuinely helps the composition has earned its place.
But if a material is present primarily to make a concentrate bulkier or cheaper, without meaningfully improving its function or fragrance?
Well, I have a problem with that.
And I'd have an even bigger problem with using the resulting concentration percentage to suggest something extraordinary about the perfume.
Because 28% of a thoughtfully constructed concentrate and 28% of a heavily extended concentrate aren't necessarily equivalent experiences.
The number alone doesn't tell you what's doing the work.
More Isn't Always Better
I appreciate a fragrance with depth.
I appreciate longevity.
And I certainly appreciate a composition that develops beautifully from its opening through to its dry-down.
But increasing concentration doesn't automatically improve any of those things.
Different aromatic materials behave differently.
Some project beautifully at modest concentrations. Others remain closer to the skin. Some are exceptionally persistent.
A poorly balanced fragrance doesn't become a masterpiece simply because somebody adds more concentrate.
It becomes a more concentrated, poorly balanced fragrance.
An impressive achievement, I'm sure.
But not one I'd recommend.
Why We Choose 28%
Our objective isn't to win a competition over who can squeeze the most concentrate into a bottle.
I want depth without unnecessary aggression.
Presence without overwhelming everyone in the immediate vicinity.
And a fragrance that has room to develop rather than announcing its entire personality in the first thirty seconds.
That's the philosophy behind our 28%.
But equally important is what goes into creating that concentrate.
I don't want our fragrances bulk-extended simply to make a percentage look more impressive.
I want materials chosen because they contribute something meaningful.
Whether that's scent, structure, stability or another genuine formulation requirement.
Every ingredient must make the next ingredient more beautiful.
That's our guiding principle.
Admittedly, some materials earn their place through chemistry rather than romance.
I'm perfectly comfortable with that.
I simply expect them to earn it.
The Percentage Isn't the Perfumer
This is where I think the industry occasionally loses its perspective.
We spend an extraordinary amount of time discussing concentration and comparatively little time appreciating the people who actually construct these compositions.
A master perfumer understands the relationships between materials.
The tensions. The transitions. The balance between what should be immediately apparent and what deserves time to reveal itself.
You cannot replace that understanding with a bigger percentage.
Nor should you want to.
If you'd like to understand how concentration categories compare, our guide to Extrait de Parfum versus Eau de Parfum explores the differences.
Because ultimately, a fragrance should be judged by the experience it creates.
Not by its ability to win an arithmetic competition.
Twenty-eight percent is our concentration.
What's inside that 28% is what matters.
— Vach Cittoni
If you'd rather discover what our 28% actually feels like on your skin, you're welcome to explore our fragrances.